Rebirth of Tidore weaving that has been extinct for hundreds of years is really not a job to play with. Anita Gathmir, the figure behind the rebirth of Tidore woven fabrics and the founder of Puta Dino Kayangan, a Micro, Small and Medium Enterprise (UMKM) engaged in the textile sector. It's like putting together a puzzle, you need to collect various notes, research and historical evidence that Tidore weaving really existed in the past. Moreover, the Tidore Sultanate was a fairly large Islamic kingdom in North Maluku. In its heyday (around the 16th century to the 18th century), this kingdom controlled most of southern Halmahera Island, Buru Island, Seram Island, and many islands off the coast of West Papua.
"But in our traditional ceremony, we use cloth from outside," said Anita, as she is usually called
Fabrics, looms, and craftsmen can no longer be found among the people of Tidore, North Maluku. Whereas the Tidore Sultanate and the Tidore people still maintain many traditions and rituals that require traditional dress, one of which is the use of woven cloth.
Then a big question arose in Anita's mind, why Tidore's signature cloth never appeared in formal events, including traditional ceremonies.
Tidore's identity must be present again. This is no joke, this is a huge loss that should not be allowed to happen.
Armed with such enthusiasm and determined reasons, Anita strives to realize her dream of revitalizing Tidore woven fabrics. Workers weave typical Tidore fabrics at the Puta Dino Kayangan weaving house, Tidore Islands City, North Maluku, Saturday (15/10/2022).
Initially, data and information related to Tidore cloth were minimal, even almost non-existent.
Anita, a woman born in Soasio Tidore, was moved to invite the youth of Tidore (Ngofa Tidore) to revive the weaving culture in the land of Tidore.
Tidore's own weaving trail began with the discovery of an old, fragile, and unkempt gedogan embroidery loom in Kedaton (Sultan's Palace) in Tidore.
"I was told by my uncle, he told me that he had seen a loom before, but it had been placed on the ceiling of the house, meaning it was not used. I finally got the information," he said.
Anita, who is still part of the family of the Tidore Sultanate, had no trouble entering Kedaton just to see the looms and Tidore's distinctive motifs.
In the Kedaton of the Tidore Sultanate, a motif of woven bamboo was found. The woven bamboo motifs that were found inspired the creation of later woven motifs.
On the other hand, a grandmother (Mrs. Zaenab) from Gurabati, South Tidore District, Tidore Islands City, North Maluku gave her a woven cloth. Disclosure of the existence of Tidore weaving in the past is starting to open a little.
Anita said that the people of Gurabati once engaged in weaving or making cloth with simple tools. This activity is usually done by adult women. But unfortunately, the weaving activity was not continued by his children.
From these various searches, it can finally be ascertained that in ancient times there were weaving and weaving activities in Tidore.
"I'm sure there must be a typical Tidore cloth," he said.
Information is also obtained from the stories of old people who are around 80 years old that Tidore cloth does exist. But in what form, it is not clear.
Over time, he finally found a black and white photo of the sultanate at an event using woven cloth, and he believed that it was Tidore's signature cloth.
With the full support of the North Maluku branch of Bank Indonesia (BI), assisted by the Faculty of Cultural Sciences, University of Indonesia (FIB UI), Anita and the Tidore youths received assistance to revitalize Tidore's woven fabrics.
With these supports, Anita sent a number of young men and women from Tidore to learn to weave in Java. Anita also brought a weaving teacher to Tidore.
The search for Tidore's distinctive motifs continues to be carried out in line with the expansion and strengthening of the weaving skills that Tidore youths and women have obtained until finally establishing a special weaving house called the Puta Dino Kayangan Ngofa Tidore Weaving House which was inaugurated its operations on September 14, 2019.
"Over time we believe it can be a business, especially for children in Tidore," he said. Workers display one of the old Tidore fabric motifs at the Puta Dino Kayangan Weaving House, Tidore Islands City, North Maluku, Saturday (15/10/2022).