Kenyan President William Ruto announced plans to spearhead an initiative that would ensure all military and police uniforms, as well as other clothing, are produced exclusively in Kenya. “I have issued forward-looking instructions: All uniforms, shoes and other clothing required by all our security services must be produced locally by our companies and made by young Kenyans,” William Ruto said at a recent meeting. Kenyan textile companies, cotton farmers, garment workers, small businesses and the public reacted with joy and optimism to the new policy. Many parties hope that this initiative can revitalize the textile industry which is experiencing difficulties and can have a positive impact on the economy as a whole.
Nairobi-based fashion designer Amos Mwangi sees the move as an opportunity as lifestyle and fashion change in Kenya: "People are starting to accept what we call signature. So, this is a good thing," he says .
Increasing local production
Kenya currently relies heavily on textile imports, with over 90% coming from countries such as China, India, Pakistan, Tanzania and Turkey. However, investment and finance expert Caroline Karugu believes that textile imports are not necessary if Kenya can produce them domestically.
"What I wear is made here in Kenya – my jacket is made in Kawangware. These materials don't need to be imported," he told DW.
Tejal Dodhia, Managing Director of Thika Cloth Mills, has invested in state-of-the-art machinery to meet the growing demand. He can also imagine a future without high imports.
"Everyone knows how important this is... I hope the country will appreciate this (Initiative). Let's all encourage people to buy Kenyan products, build Kenya," Tejal Dodhia told DW.
Short of raw materials, most imports of used clothing
However, the president's new directive raises questions about whether Kenya can meet much of the local demand for textile products. Apart from army shoes and police uniforms, most of the basic materials come from overseas textile manufacturers, especially from Southeast Asia.
"Even though we want to buy products made in Kenya, not everything is available here. So, some products may have to still come from China or India," said textile customer Anne Mutiso Mwikali.
Tejal Dodhia hopes that his business, which is already running at full capacity, can become a door to advancing Kenyan brands in the textile sector, which is still dominated by imported products. He is confident that his investment will pay off.
"If we don't install new machines now, we won't be able to meet market demand," he explained.
The second-hand clothing sector is growing rapidly in Kenya. Every year, the country imports nearly 200,000 tonnes of used clothing. But Phyllis Wakaiga of the Kenya Manufacturers Association sees opportunities for growth and development, and suggests second-hand clothing traders could shift their focus to locally made clothing.
"We have an opportunity, where we can sell these goods in local markets. So, they (traders) will change their products and sell locally produced goods," Phyllis Wakaiga told DW.
