During her move to Paris in the early 20th century, Gabrielle'Coco' Chanel became acquainted with a young French former cavalry officer and textile heir, Etienne Balsan. Their meeting became a way for Coco Chanel not only in the wider world of fashion, but also to find a new passion, namely horseback riding. Almost a century later, Charlotte Casiraghi, equestrian and journalist, granddaughter of Rainier III, Prince of Monaco and Grace Kelly, who is also a close friend of Karl Lagerfeld, revived this passion. She rode a horse to open the Chanel haute couture runway show summer 2022.

The galloping of horses on the sandy runway was the start of a fashion show set against the backdrop of Xavier Veilhan's installation. This avant-garde decor in the 1920s is thick with geometric lines that look light but still elegant, as in a series of Virginie Viard's creations this time.

Dresses that look light and floaty, muted macrame colors, and subtle geometric embroidery match the coral-colored decor.

Sturdy tweed material paired with brightly colored lace displays aggressive couture while keeping it under control, like a horse but still.

A dress entirely embroidered by the legendary Lesage atelier with a camellia print is also the highlight of the collection, embodying the feminine feel so strongly associated with its founder, Gabriel Chanel.

"It's like a conversation across time," said Virginie Viard.