Until now, plastic waste is still the biggest issue that needs attention in our efforts to overcome environmental problems. Therefore, it is not surprising that more and more industries, especially fashion, are trying to take advantage of plastic recycling to be used as fabrics or clothing products. As a popular recycled material, plastic bottles are usually converted into fabrics in the form of polyester or the most commonly used textile fiber in the world. Well, according to a report from Textile Exchange, polyester made up about 52 percent of the fiber produced globally in 2019, but only 14 percent of that total was made from recycled materials.
"Using recycled plastic bottles is an improvement over using pure polyester," said Ashley Gill, director of standards at Textile Exchange.
Gill also revealed that both polyester and plastic bottles come from fossil fuels that cause climate change. So, reducing the demand for pure materials like this will have a positive impact on the environment. But, even when recycled, polyester still raises questions about its sustainability.
Some of the concern stems from research that has found microplastics, as tiny particles, can be released from synthetic textiles such as polyester each time they are washed or worn. These tiny bits of plastic are increasingly being found in food, air and water sources.
Although the potential consequences for human health and ecosystems are still being researched, preliminary studies look at microplastic pollution that can damage marine ecosystems and damage human lungs. For Francesca de Falco, a post-doctoral researcher at the University of Plymouth who authored numerous studies on microplastics, that is reason enough to curb microfiber pollution immediately.
Sports brand Girlfriend Collective, which makes about 80 percent of its clothing from recycled polyester from plastic bottles, admits that microplastics are a problem. In fact, other sustainable clothing brands such as Reformation and Patagonia are also selling microfiber filters to catch microplastics that leave washing machines before they end up in the ocean.
But, according to De Falco, the problem is bigger than just catching microplastics in washing machines.
"Fibers can come off when we put on clothes, when we wash clothes, during manufacture, and so on," he explained.
"So we have to take precautions at all these different levels."
Microplastic pollution isn't the only thing looming over the environmental concerns of polyester made from recycled plastic bottles. There is also the tricky issue of recycling logistics. Gill says that plastic bottles are easy to recycle because there is a robust system for bottle collection.
If the used bottles are not turned into clothes, they can be turned into new bottles which can then be recycled again at the end of their life.
In short, fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles are far from being the solution to making the fashion industry more sustainable.
In addition to the problem of microplastics, the heavy chemicals and dyes used can also cause other problems.
Overall, less polyester would be best for the earth. But when it comes to clothes, it's better to use recycled materials than nothing.
Gill also hopes that clothing companies and buyers alike will encourage continuous improvement by reducing overproduction and consumption, even if it's for recycled products that are claimed to be sustainable.
